Moto Blues

On Friday I woke up with a sore throat. I got myself out of bed and started the drive to Korsang. At the corner of Norodom and Mao Tse Tung Blvds., I saw the police in their blue and orange uniforms and looking so cold and sad. I checked my signals and avoided eye contact. They directed me to pull over. They are mean as hell. No one in Phnom Penh has mirrors on their motorbikes, but it was time for them to demand fines. I paid off a dollar to the pocket of a policeman, for my freedom, and for their New Years Celebrations.

When I first started driving the moto I did so with a frightening degree of excitement. Abandonment. I learned how to navigate the streets like the Cambodians- against traffic, on the sidewalks, in and around and infront and between all cars and cyclos and motorbikes, and to the point of barely dodging the most obscure obstacles that were only avoided by astute attention to the peripherals. I prided myself in my steering, in my fearlessness.

But gradually it wore me out. The excitement exited out of my body as I laid in bed each night feeling happy to be alive.

After my run-in with the cops, I resumed my seriousness on the moto, carefully crossing each intersection where a game of chicken ensued. I crossed two streets, asserting to everyone in question that I did not fear them nearly side-swiping me, and that in fact, I was on the main road and they must slow, for their own damn well-being.

Two intersections were crossed in such manner.

Then I got hit by a van. It mustn't have seen me, for it slowed a minute, indicating I should continue on at normal speed. But then it sped up and we collided with just enough force to send my moto to the ground, and me just barely with it. Mostly, I avoided contact with the pavement. Fear and adrenaline forbid my rememberance of the moment. Only my hands hit. I picked up my bike quickly, looked at my body with profound disbelief and pride at its ability to endure. Two men jumped out of the van and much to my surprise, they apologized. I said it was okay and drove off as quickly as possible in order to avoid a scene. Immediately I reached an intersection and saw the much feared police, so naturaly I turned sharply against traffic and continued along the side, careful to avoid head-on collisions.